Puglian Wednesday

 At this very time, last year, we made our first post-pandemic, highly-anticipated, journey back to Italy. After two disappointments, we finally were "allowed" by the governments and the airlines, to make the trip providing we adhered to the vaccination proof, pre and post travel testing policies and that we remain Covid-free during out stay. So, with all of the boxes checked and with hearts in our mouths, we came back. Our gap in between visits allowed us the time to decide that we needed to see and experience the peaceful and tranquil Puglia region, further south on the map, coastline Italy, the opposite of the Amalfi Coast that we had found so beautiful on another trip. Puglia has been touted as an area that has not yet been tainted by the influx of tourists largely responsible for the current "theme-parking" of the "Big Three"....Rome, Florence and Venice. It is a fact that many native Venetians have left their birthplace and the population has dwindled to the point at which the remaining residents have actually held a funeral for their beloved home. They are fighting hard, to this day, to push the enormous cruise ships that invade the lagoon, and to reclaim the culture of the city which now is referred to as "VeniceLand". 

We chose "Casa Tra I Trulli" from an Air B&B site, largely because of the photos of the property on which it rests, complete with a family of horses out back. Not to mention the presence of three authentic trulli houses which date back to 1870 when the owner's grandfather raised his own family right here. You know you are in Puglia (Apuglia) when you start to spot the tulli houses which dot the landscape, like the homes of Gnomes. But they are real and lived in as they have been for centuries, never to be confused with a set-up for tourists!! After a lovely two week stay, a bond developed between us and the host family, resulting in a transatlantic friendship that resulted in a very kind invitation to return here, to Martina Franca and the Casa as guests of the family. That family consists of Mimma, Pietro, Fausta, Antonio and the parents of Mimma, Theresa and Stefano.

Last year, we had a car. This year, we do not.  Suffice it to say, we will never drive in this area again.And that, dear readers is why we took a bus, a train, another train,  another overnight stay, another bus and an expertly-executed ride from Pietro and Mimma who awaited us with hearts filled in Alberobello, the neighboring town. From the first embrace, we knew it was all worthwhile. 

The weather has not been in our favor. It did not rain all day yesterday but the sun only poked out a few times and the cold, damp air prevailed. Here, as in most everywhere in this country, the houses are made of varying stone materials. When the sun does not shine, the materials retain the cold and we are chilled to the bone but there is a promise of warmer, more Spring Like weather, returning tomorrow. 

So, we "rested" most of the day yesterday.  Mimma, the darling person that she is, stocked the refrigerator with food for lunches and breakfasts. Fresh eggs from the farm, salad ingredients from the garden. Coffee, a homemade cake, snacks, you name it. We are all set for the times that we will be on our own. I immediately set out to survey the property, to see what has changed since last year, and to say hello to the horses. One of those beauties is the "baby" named "Pete" who was born here within hours of the sad death of our dear friend, Peter Rosenberg. He's grown, but is not yet full-sized. It was explained that he will do most of his growth spurt during the Spring when he can eat the nutritionally perfect green grasses that surround him and his family now. Following my time with the cavalli, I retreated to the little single trullo that is accessed through the kitchen. Located between the cucina and the roof, the trullo is a perfect space for sitting on the little sofa and doing whatever makes one happiest. It's my space in Puglia and on warmer days, I love to sit there and write. Or just sit here and gaze out the door at the lovely view. No need to plan. No stress for many, many miles.

We were invited to dine with Pietro, Mimma and their children. "Come at seven". Italians don't lift a fork until at least eight. And, at that time, we all sat down to a typical Puglian dinner. The freshly made orecchiette pasta, a regional specialty, was made by Theresa, Mimma's mother. The sauce, by Mimma. Following the primi piatti, a round of braciole and polpette (real Pugliese style "meatballs") the recipe for which I must get today from Mimma!  They were not made from meat and they were light as feathers. Next, Puglian sausages and perfectly roasted potatoes. The amounts were just right. We were getting full but trying very hard to not get over-full. Finally, dessert of a very regional tart-like cake, filled with pastry cream and cherries. A round of some nice grappa sent us back out, up the driveway and to our guesthouse for a well-earned sleep on a very chilly night.

We're heading out soon.  It isn't raining, just an occasional drizzle now and the promise of a nice day tomorrow.  Mimma has purchased tickets for the three of us to visit the Grotte di Castellana this afternoon. Coats have been loaned to us. Caves on a cold, wet day........and we're as ready as we can be. This should be quite the adventure. We've had a nice breakfast - fresh eggs from I Trulli, and Mimmi dropped off some heavenly fresh mozzarella and a loaf of bread. That, plus a salad made with produce from their garden, and we had a feast for lunch. I've been invited to the kitchen to learn how to cook a regional favorite called "Panzerotti" later today. I've had them. They are very tasty indeed. Description to follow tomorrow, no doubt. 

We better return to our hill town on time Friday afternoon so we can walk off our calories or we're going to need a diet doctor.