Assisi Morning This Week

Life in Assisi has become so rhythmic and soothing. We've found our water level and each day, we seek it and every moment is intoxicating. 

Our days usually start with a trip to a cafe for a cappuccino for me and a caffe latte for Joe. We have identified a cafe as "ours" as most residents here do.  The decision to claim a cafe is based not only on proximity but on general ambience as well. Proximity plays a huge role because the morning's official start should not include walking a long distance and performing a penitential rite in getting home. Nice outdoor seating with a view, well, it doesn't exactly hurt. We're settled into "bar La Piazzetta Agnese", named for its location and owned by sisters Francesca and Nicoletta. They know what we are going to ask for, hand over the delicious coronetti first. Our coffees arrive at our table with tiny glasses or water, delivered by one of the ladies. We're greeted warmly, treated as friends, and spend hours lingering without feeling rushed or guilty for taking a table that overlooks a gorgeous panorama. Most of the time, we run into people who we know and foursomes are easily put together for the art of chit chat. Never a bad way to start a day.

This morning, I was on a particular mission. Three years ago, we were told to visit Marco Zubboli, the owner of a book and paper shop bearing his family name that has been in the same location since it first opened in 1870. Hand printed cards, note papers, bound books and a variety of other beautiful items fill the tiny shop.  Marco arranged for us to have a tour of the workshop where everything is made. During that fascinating visit, we were introduced to Gianfranco, the "marbler" who designs and hand-manufactures the exquisite papers. He cordially invited me to return and spend more time one day and so, today was the day.

As Gianfranco assembled (one step at a time) folders that will be used by choirs for sheet music, he explained the process, what type of glue he uses, how he fuses the papers to the covers and gets the bindings to lay flat......I sat across from his work table. He allowed me to peruse the stack of marbled papers that will eventually be used on the blank-paged books that are sold in the shop and he patiently answered my questions about the process of marbling that fascinates me so. He's a master, that's for certain. He told me that he was familiar with New England, having taught at R.I.S.D. amongst other places, workshops for marbelists. 

Marco, Gianfranco and Pietro

After a little while, I took my leave, went back to the shop and purchased a few cards, some bookplates and a very, very nice book to hold my beloved Umbrian recipes. I have been cooking here, using authentic regional recipes and want to put them all in one place. Most require translation.  I do have to say that one of the things I will enjoy about being back at my house is cooking in my own language.  Everything that I purchase from supermarkets has directions in Italian of course.  So, not only do I struggle with a new recipe, but during the preparation, I also slug through the translation and oh, there aren't any measuring cups here at the apartment. In fact, in all my Italian kitchens, never have I seen a set of measuring spoons or cups. Now I know why my grandmother, when telling us how to cook something, used her cupped hand as her tool of communication.

It doesn't always work.