Holy Saturday in Assisi. So many families enjoying the nooks and crannies, the central piazza, the beautiful and iconic churches. The Easter Weekend at its peak. A gorgeous day for joining in the celebration.
Our day started with a visit to the weekly street market and a stop into our favorite local supermarket for, guess what? Umbrian white wine. Can't get it at home. Might as well enjoy it here and it will not break the bank. The supermarket is a little over a mile, round trip. Not so bad getting there but a bit more cardio work getting back, especially with a backpack carrying two bottles. For larger and heavier hauls, we have the service of a good friend who lives in town.
Typically, we divide our day into parts and we're still in the process of getting into that rythm. A morning walk or task accomplished, home for lunch and a rest and then back out again until dinner, the ingredients perhaps having been purchased during the first part of the day. We are in a hill town. Make no mistake about it, we are forever challenged by the fact that Assisi is made up of hills and lots of steps. Each day, we find that we are better conditioned. It's a matter of reminding oneself constantly that what goes down so beautifully, must come back up. If you are not in top form, best to not consider a stay in Assisi. Come for the day and suffer the pain later. We won't fault you. Lots of nuns do it!
Yesterday, following lunch, we walked down to the Basilica de San Francesco, the Big Daddy of them all. Everyone who comes to Assisi visits San Francesco at least once and stops by to visit the tomb of the beloved saint. Announcements in the upper and lower basilicas every so often are made....."Prego, silencio, gracie". People have a tendency to forget that this is highly sacred space and quiet must be observed. Guys, don't even think about entering wearing your baseball cap. You will promptly be asked to remove it. Never mind shorts and tank tops. Not allowed.
A happy walk up a hill and it was time to visit Bibenda, a cozy wine bar owned by Nila Halum, a proud and strong Ukrainian woman who became my dear friend during a visit in 2018. It was good to note that business is picking up after the Pandemic and in addition to the delightful company of Nila, we quickly made some new friends, had some interesting (and informative) conversations (in English and Italian) and a few laughs. God bless Nila for always ensuring that outcome.
Refreshed, happy, feeling fit and strong, we returned to the Palazzo Spignoli for a dinner of umbrian sausages braised in fresh fennel. Another of Letizia's recipes.
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