Wednesday, April 5, 2023

Grace






 Today is Wednesday and we're so much more settled in than we were a few days ago.

The weather is a tad bit chillier than we had anticipated. But the next few days promise the return to Spring and the days before Easter will hold traditions and religious experiences. This will be our second Easter in Italy. Seventeen years ago, we were in Chianti, sharing a beautiful vacation with friends from the States. It was during dinner in a town called Castellina that we learned first-hand how the evening of Good Friday is marked with a unique procession. Here,  the day is called "Venerdi Santo" of "Holy Friday" and it is a day of great solemnity and ritual.We're looking forward to witnessing the observance here in our little town. Surely there will be much to tell.

For now, the daily routines have set in. It helps a whole bunch, knowing the ins-and-outs of life in a small Italian town and the quirks of living in an apartment where there are so many  details that are unique and, many of them, beyond explanation. Just knowing how to turn lights on and off can be daunting, never mind the art of using a stove. Do not expect high water pressure and don't count on hot water being hot, for starters. The water is soft so lathering up in a shower is not always possible anyway. Get in, get out. 

We are finding many things changed here since the Pandemic. Just as in the States, prices of everything have risen. It's sad to see shuttered businesses, those that did not survive. Those that did, have invested in what their owners hope will be a great comeback. But it's way too soon to predict that future. Yes, the tourists have returned to Italy. Americans and Germans are everywhere. But the landlocked province of Umbria has always had a harder time than the big boys. The Big Three, Rome, Florence and Venice, are on everyone's hit list as they make up for lost time. Umbria, the little step child, must wait her turn and it's hard to imagine how people survive financially during that wait.

This is our second visit post-Covid. Last year, we split our time between Umbria and the province of Puglia, much further to the south. Most of our time in Assisi surrounded the celebration of the Calendimaggio, a fabulous four days during which the entire town comes together to welcome Spring. We will be on hand again for this again and of course, we're looking forward to it. Hopefully, it will be warmer!  

The cost of groceries has gone up. What a surprise!  But, still, nowhere near the prices seen near our home. And, the quality, well, that's a world onto itself. Shopping in the supermarkets here is one of my favorite pastimes. If you haven't had the pleasure, picture this.....the most ordinary of stores has the feel of an upscale specialty shop. So, I cook. Eating in restaurants for two whole months is not going to happen. Even with the price of a good cappuccino at $1.50. 

With all its quirks, problems, woes and dramas, Italy still continues to charm and delight me. I feel very, very much at home and right now, especially with all that is going on in the U.S., I accept the gift of peace and tranquility that Assisi offers and will never ask more than for one day of grace at a time.

Pace e bene





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