Fallo Doppio. Per Favore.

If you don't get up and out early enough in the morning, you miss stuff.

Just as at home, I am not a late sleeper. By that, I mean that I rarely stay in bed past six o'clock and I have no logical explanation for this habit.  Same, same.

It takes a while to get into the rhythm of life in a small Italian hilltop town such as Assisi.  The first week is practically a wash.  But, we've been here for three weeks already, much to my disbelief and my dread of the rest of the time passing too quickly, and both Joe and I are into the rhythm. Of course, we'd be happy to have a washing machine and we'd really like a more comfortable sofa but other than that, we're quite contented and at ease with our surroundings.

So, this morning I got up extra early and contemplated my options. I did not want to wake Joe. We had a killer (in a good way) day yesterday, hiking up to the Eremo https://www.assisiofm.it/eremo-delle-carceri-assisi-103-1.html and that was just our morning excursion.  I topped the day off with an aperitifo  (Aperol Spritz) with my dear friend Isabel and we were both exhausted as a result.

I decided to give my old cafe Il Duomo, another chance at making me happy and sometime shortly after seven (keep in mind that I'm referring to seven-in-the-morning), I took myself up the street and sat down to a delightful cup of cappuccino, alongside Patricia, the local hairdresser.

In walks a man who I figured for a local.  Up to the counter he went and ordered a J&B.  "Fallo doppio." Make it a double.  Okay.  The barrista pours a double J&B and wham, bam, the guy downs it within seconds, pays and exits.  Hmmm.  Is it me or is this unusual for this hour of the day? As he walks away, both of the others look at each other, shocked a bit, and laughed at which point I also did a giggle.  They exchanged some words which told me that they were surprised and I joined in with "in my country the word would be 'wowsers'"!  "Is he on his way to church?"

The barrista makes the body motion of a bird tilting this way and that in flight.  No words necessary.

Who knows - I guess a whole story could be written about our early-morning-drinker.  I don't write fiction very well. Maybe this could be what gets me on the road.  But,  I do love observing behavior and I do love the exchange, in any language, of the interpretation of the what's-just-gone-on-here, and this was a doozy.  As I paid for my cappuch (1 Euro, 50),  all I could say was...."Wowsers!" which was met with "Doppio!!!"

Gotta get up early or you miss it.

Amici

https://incampagna.com/our-history/

I'm starting today with a link. Please read it.  I don't think I could or would have written a better introduction to a very good friend,one who I love and admire deeply.

And this is how I spent the greater part of my day yesterday.....with Leti.

It's hard to conceptualize the whole scenario.  Mother, father, daughter and dog living very, very high up on a very, very exquisite mountain, far from the inner sanctum of Assisi.  The hows and whys then, are best explained at the website.  You have to be there to fully appreciate the hows and whys, to stand behind the house and take in the views. To breathe in the air, rarified.  To smell the scent of fresh herbs, growing as if they were competing at the County Fair, all of them in line for First Prize.

The first time I met Leti, she collected me at the base of town, not far from the Porta San Pietro. From there, we drove to her then "little" girl's bus stop where we collected the sweet child Tea (TEE AH) and drove up, up and away to their home for an afternoon.  I was struck by the long ride but more by the quiet beauty of Madonna alla Piatto (No, that's not Letizia.  It's the name of their B&B, explained in the above link).  I was also quite taken by the charm of the beautiful Tea.  And by Ruurd and all the work he had done and was still doing at their home.

  Over the years, we have kept in touch. Tea is now tall and still beautiful. She's preparing to go off to college in a few months. She still remembers the little package of napkins I brought on the first visit and is grateful for the package I brought this time.  She's very gracious and graceful for 18.

The beautiful Letizia, taken in Provincetown, first lobster roll ever for her!

  Letizia's cookbook https://madonnadelpiatto.com/cookbook/ is a mainstay in my own kitchen.  When I use it, I feel as if she's standing there with me and last Winter, she actually was, when she graced us with a visit.  My friends immediately grew to love her too and they often ask about her as she does, them.

Two weeks ago, Joe and I were invited to one of her cooking classes.  What a thrill it was to be
cooking with our author-friend, in the very Kitchen With a View.  The day was fun and the food was marvelous and now, we are prepared to take on ravioli when we return. Joe feels very confident so you know that the instruction was as good as it gets.

After her yoga class (this woman never stops learning) yesterday, we met up at our now-usual place, the Piazza San Rufino and carefully selected a place for lunch, one neither had been to and one we both had wanted to try. http://www.hostariaterrachiama.it/ was our perfect choice for a great meal, a nice glass of wine, and a woman-to-woman chat fest.  We caught up, did a bit of gossiping, solved a few problems, and wagged our chins for several hours.  And then, we took a passagiata in true Umbrian fashion, stopping by the shops of friends, making introductions and networking.

We had a most delightful time in my favorite shop in Assisi, Madame Bovary, owned by the incredibly beautiful Catia Piergentili, who will tell you in the sweetest voice that above all, she is a philosopher.  There's nothing in her tiny, packed shop that i don't love and she's the thing I love best in the place.  She and Leti had not met in person up until yesterday and when we left, they were good friends.  I almost left with a new blue dress but the jacket I bought this week might just have to be "the" item this year.  Time will tell.  They do "Black Friday Week" here too.

The beautiful Catia

The beautiful Jo Comodi

My poor, tired friend (she's done a series of cooking classes these past weeks and has more scheduled) and I made our way up towards the place where she parked her car but had to make yet one more stop along the way.  Just doors away from my apartment is the studio of old pal Jo Comodi.
I've written a lot about Jo, and friends have come to know her as my "scarf lady."
http://jocomodi.com/.  I have several of her art scarves, each handmade at her home in Perugia (she took me there once and showed me how it's done and I'm sworn to secrecy - as if I could eve
r do it).
If you were at the Umbrian dinner on the Cape (Letizia's recipes prepared at Firestarter Pizza in Dennis), you might recall the silk poncho I wore.  A long introduction and the two now are friends and hoping to maybe have a workshop at Alla Maddonna one day in the future.

My lovely day, filled with laughs, memories, new and old friendships, was not over until I returned home, met up with Joe and took our own passagiata , this time up again to the Rocca Maggiore to witness again, the beauty of the valley below, the entire town in one breathtaking view, and the promise of a sunset, one that is uniquely beautiful in a uniquely beautiful country filled with uniquely beautiful people.

Here's to friendships that endure, across seas and to the top of mountains. And to very full and good days behind and ahead.

More Changes

From a different cafe, but you get the idea.....

The more things change.....the more things, I was almost about to say "change" in place of the appropriate words "stay the same" but, as I sit here at 7:30 in the morning, in the same cafe, at the same seat I sat, every day last year, I am already starting to see the usual cast of characters entering. This pattern, however, has come to an abrupt end.....

This is the first morning in three weeks that I have availed myself of the opportunity to fully wake up to my surroundings.  I left a sleeping Joe and walked down the street a few steps into my beloved Cafe Duomo.  Nearly broke my heart the day we came in here upon arrival, the absence of Isabel was palpable and it all felt so unfamiliar.  How could a place that had once been as familiar as the keyboard on my laptop turned so cruel and harsh upon my soul I wondered.  Joe had no frame of reference so he was satisfied.  Good cappuccino and an outdoor seating area that hangs over the beautiful Piazza San Rufino.  Devoid of tourists, the silence of the square is broken only by the rushing of water in the fontana and the pigeons flapping.  Not a bad way to wake up.

I have a good internet connection in here.  To my joy, my laptop was instantly recognized and there was no need to enter a password.  That was comforting to say the least.

But, it's after 7:30 and only one familiar face has shown up.  I wonder if he remembers me, the woman who might have been a foreign correspondent? I'm still not entirely sure that the regulars from last year understood what I was doing here every morning.  But, they smiled and I smiled and it all seemed to be great.  Heck, by the time I left, they were even posing for pictures.

Were Isabel here now, I would be enjoying her play list - she shared my love of Leonard Cohen and made sure we had some time together, the three of us.  I would also be getting a little language lesson. Never did I feel dumb in her presence.  I asked questions freely and she answered all of them, including my Italian culture inquiries.  Perhaps that was due in large part to the fact that she is not Italian.  She's Portuguese and is married to an Italian.  Second language for both of us makes for kindred spirits.

Apparently, I am not the only one who misses her.  Isabel, come back to the Duomo.  I need you!!

 THE MORE THINGS CHANGE, THE MORE THEY STAY THE SAME. THAT'S A STUPID SAYING.  THE MORE THINGS CHANGE, THE MORE THEY CHANGE. PERIOD.

A Casa

Last year, when I occupied the ground floor, actually known as "Zero" (the first floor is what we call the second floor), I must admit that I kind of took the neighborhood for granted, as lovely as it was.

This year, with Joe, we call the second (aka third) floor "home" and each and every time we return after venturing out, we know we have earned the right to make that reference.  We enter through an iron, locked gate, and ascend three flights of narrow terracotta steps which lead to our lovely landing and our front door.  Yes, we have just as much street noise every morning when the trash is collected before seven o'clock, but we do have a bedroom window with a view and the very top of the Cathedral of San Rufino makes the climb and noise all worthwhile.

In addition to the noisy trash collectors, we have a construction project going on right outside our door.  I'm thinking that it was going on last year too and am sure it will be still in progress next year.  It has been the object of Joe's fascination and mine, having been an "industrial nurse"who can't help but check out workers at work.  These men are drilling into stone all day long.  They are lifting and toting tons of new stone, creating walls and floors and steps.  Drilling, bending, squatting.  All I note are pads that cushion their knees when they are mortaring and laying cobblestones. Nothing else in the health and safety category. My office is closed.

We're at #16A Via Porta Perlici.  The Piazza del Comune is at the center of the town and south of it, the area known as the Sotto or lower end.  We're north, in the area known as Sopra. Back in the day....way back, this was considered to be THE place to live, the Yuppydom of Assium. Despite several renovations over centuries, the steep road up from the Comune preserves its typical medieval swagger and appearance.  Eventually, the street ends in the Piazza San Rufino which is dominated, to say the least, by the Romanesque facade of the Cathedral. Saint Rufino was the first bishop of Assisi until he was martyred in 238 A.D. And so, he has his own after death hangout. The cathedral represents one of the masterpieces of Umbrian architecture with its three rose windows and the Bell Tower. It was also the baptismal place of Saints Francis, Clare and Agnes.

The Piazza San Rufino, in addition to housing the beautiful Fontana di San Rufino, also has the dubious distinction of being home to the finest pizza in.....well....in all of Italy and my favorite cafe, Il Duomo. Pizza and coffee both within steps of each other. Throw Joe a sleeping bag. He will happily room with the oversized pigeons who frolic in the lovely fountain all day.

The street that shoots in between the two favorites is Via Santa Maria delle Rose. Overlooking the square is the former parish church of Santa Maria delle Rose, called Santa Maria Minore in ancient days in an effort to distinguish it from Santa Maria Maggiore.  I know, this stuff gets confusing.  But think West Dennis....Dennisport and you are heading in the right direction.  Speaking of direction, heading away from San Rufino, up yet another hill, one of zillions that we climb, every day, a zillion times a day, we are back on Via Porta Perlici and loving it.  At Number 9 was the Hospital di San Lorenzo which eventually passed into private hands. At Number 17, the medieval houses where the Uber rich Mammoni family resided.  I think that is where the workers are now busily engaged in converting the building into yet another wealthy holding. Lots of Uber rich families still around.

Coats of arms adorn many of the doorways along Via Porta Perlici and as one deviates to the right along the street part of the Roman Aqueduct of the Sanguinone can be seen.  I think it just looks like an old wall but then, I was not there when it was built.  The street, I do know, terminates at the Porta Perlici, one of the gates into the old town, built on a rocky ridge early in the 14th Century.  Not far from that point, the remains of the Roman Ampitheater are found but that is for another time.

For now, it is time to simply enjoy modern life on Via Porta Perlici and to rest after a lovely lunch with friends at the Osteria del Mulino.

Why Assisi?

Before we left home for this trip to Italy, we were asked about our plans, our destination(s).  We were not surprised when we were questioned about our choice to remain in one place for most of our five weeks here.  What will you do for four weeks in Assisi?  Why Assisi?

For me, the answer is as simple as standing in the Piazza Santa Chiara, watching the sunset over the valley below on a Fall afternoon. It's as uncomplicated as standing in the Upper Church of the Basilica of San Francesco, glancing at Cimabue frescoes waltzing around the walls with Giotto.

Check this out....

The oldest traces of human habitation in the territory later known as Assisi go back to the early Bronze Age (1900-1800 B.C.).......From a 203-page book on the history and art of Assisi.

From the ancient author C.Piccolpasso, The First Book of plans and Portraits of the Cities and Lands of Umbria Under the Government of Perugia, 1578-90, come these words:

Assisi is situated on the side of a mountain, although she encircles it all with walls on the northern side.  The steep cliffs on which she was founded make her impregnable. 

Check out the dates. The BRONZE AGE! "Impregnable"?  Steep cliffs?  Does this say "safe" and "secure" to you?

Serene.  Peaceful.  Quiet.  Charming.  Welcoming.  Quaint.  Lovely.  Sweet.  Luminous. Saintly. Inviting.  Stress-less.  Wonderous.  Healthy.  Inspiring. Alluring. Fun.  Contemplative. Sane. Beautiful. Nurturing. Glorious. Blessed. Passive. Pastoral. Abundant. Dear. Elegant. Zen.

Tomorrow, I will write about our neighborhood and why four weeks simply is not enough.

For now, I will enjoy living in an impregnable town, surrounded by steep cliffs on the side of Mount Subasio, with the company of my favorite traveling companion and a sprinkling of tourists who, like Joe and me, drift quietly through lovely little Assisi, listening to church bells and footsteps on cobblestones.

All In A Day’s Walk

This is the back of the Chiesa Santa Chiara

Blue sky, hill, Joe

Along the walk that leads from the center of Assisi to Santa Maria degli Angeli

The sights that we would miss if we were driving

A Cappuccino with a view


We are, and will be, for two more weeks, totally car-less.  It has its moments. 
Most of them are good, very, very good

Last Week, In Umbria.....and a little bit of Tuscany

This is Joe's favorite place in the world.  D'Andrea Pizza, near our apartment.  

You may remember meeting our incredible friend, Letizia Mattiacci, on the Cape last Winter.  Well, here she is in her kitchen!

Good thing we ordered only one antipasto at lunch that day. And NO, we did not come to Italy for the food!!  NO! NO!

Walking in the Bosco di San Francesco is so much like parts of the Camino de Santiago

The Rocca Maggiore after sunset. Perched up behind our Assisi home on the Via Porta Perlici. Great hiking spot!

Joe.  Thanks to a gift from our daughter before our Camino, I can easily spot him with his red backpack

This narrow path and ancient walls surround the city of Assisi, at its highest point.  A lovely walk with beautiful views, well worth the steep climb up there

If these photos appear to be in an un-natural order, it may very well be due to the fact that I am especially technically challenged since our arrival.  I have so many more photos but for some reason, I can't download them to my laptop from my phone.  Where are our kids when we need them???

They, like most of you, are home, enjoying technological things like washing machines, dryers, and dishwashers among other wonders of modern day life.  We, on the other hand, are hand-washing everything and counting on the heat from radiators to dry everything.  Without the outpouring of heat in the evenings, nothing will dry because........it's November and it's Umbria!  Ah, yes, the season of rain.  And this is the season to end all seasons.  We are getting a LOT of rain, but, thankfully, we're not in the Veneto and we are on top of a hill.  We're surrounded by mountains, Mount Subasio being our closest neighbor.  We're hearing all about the floods of epic proportions in poor Venice and seeing horrible accounts on the news and in the papers.  Assisi gets its own weather and, like Cape Cod, if you don't like it, wait a minute.  We've virtually given up on forecasts and when the sun shines, or even when the rain does not fall, we get out and get our own Italian holiday in gear. Daily. And that always includes walking. Miles. To the supermarket, for instance, which is one half mile away.  Not bad getting there but.....coming back, all uphill.  We had a good laugh today when we made the trek back from the little market called "Tigre".  We thought about how we would never, ever walk home from our home markets, loaded with a few days worth of supplies, a bottle of wine, a sack of sugar, hand-washing liquid, dish detergent, and a few other heavy items. We did it!  Home and up the 3 flights of stairs after a few other flights of stairs in town.  

Let me remind you that we are on a totally different path from those who come on an Italian "vacation".  We're here to experiment with life, to live for a month in a hill town and to relax and have a bit of fun while we're at it.  This is not a Perillo Tour!  And, we keep reminding ourselves, we did not come here for the food......more later.

Last week,  our second, was a mixed bag of all that can possibly be good about being here. We started the week off having coffee with a friend who we've known since our second visit to Assisi.  Rebecca Winke is an American who has lived here for many years, having married a local resident. It was wonderful seeing her again and hearing about her huge successes (rebeccawinke.com). She's a brilliant woman with a sense of humor to match.  Hopefully, we'll get together again before we leave and after her return from Africa.

Wednesday found us on a long taxi ride, way up the mountain, to the loving arms of none other than Letizia Mattiacci, our friend, inn-keeper, cookbook author and owner of a very special cooking school.  We were her guests and together, with her other students, we prepared a sumptuous lunch, complete with a huge amount of Umbrian wine.  Letizia, some of you may recall, was our guest this past Winter.  Now, we can cook for each other.  Maybe not. She's still way better!  Her home is gorgeous and the views of the valley and countryside are spectacular.  It was a fun day with a group of new friends and one we will not soon forget.  Check out her website, blog and recipes at incampagna.com.  

On Thursday morning, our bags once again packed, we hopped the train for Florence.  It's a two and a half hour trip and the adventure was well worth it.  We've been to Florence a few times, never by train and this time, we were not leaving until we had seen a few things that we had been unable to see in previous visits due to time constraints.  Time was on our side this trip so we found a hotel for 2 nights and got our cultural fix.  I was NOT leaving the city until I finally went to the Accademia and saw, "You Know Who".......I got there early and much to my shock, walked right in, no line....and soon after uttered these words to myself....."I'VE SEEN DAVID AND NOW I CAN DIE". That simple. No further explanation.  Can die. Now.  What a thrill.  I cannot believe that in all of my Florence visits, I had never gotten that far.  Seen all the replicas.  But, geesh.  I can't describe this magnificent work of absolutely amazing art.  Go see it.  How the hell did he do it?  One, single, brilliantly executed work of marble.  One man.  Holy cow.

The huge Santa Maria Novella train station is mind-boggling.  So huge and so many people passing through it.  By some miracle, we found our way through the system and made our train on time, returning to the peace, solitude and coziness of Assisi on a rainy Saturday night.

We already have so many new stories.  We are making inscriptions on our hearts every day.  Quite often we both just stop and think about how well we do this whole thing together.  We, along with the fly that we have now adopted, are enjoying our daily routine in our apartment and looking forward to another week of adventures and stories.

And, we did not come here for the food.  That's a lie.