Last year, when I occupied the ground floor, actually known as "Zero" (the first floor is what we call the second floor), I must admit that I kind of took the neighborhood for granted, as lovely as it was.
This year, with Joe, we call the second (aka third) floor "home" and each and every time we return after venturing out, we know we have earned the right to make that reference. We enter through an iron, locked gate, and ascend three flights of narrow terracotta steps which lead to our lovely landing and our front door. Yes, we have just as much street noise every morning when the trash is collected before seven o'clock, but we do have a bedroom window with a view and the very top of the Cathedral of San Rufino makes the climb and noise all worthwhile.
In addition to the noisy trash collectors, we have a construction project going on right outside our door. I'm thinking that it was going on last year too and am sure it will be still in progress next year. It has been the object of Joe's fascination and mine, having been an "industrial nurse"who can't help but check out workers at work. These men are drilling into stone all day long. They are lifting and toting tons of new stone, creating walls and floors and steps. Drilling, bending, squatting. All I note are pads that cushion their knees when they are mortaring and laying cobblestones. Nothing else in the health and safety category. My office is closed.
We're at #16A Via Porta Perlici. The Piazza del Comune is at the center of the town and south of it, the area known as the Sotto or lower end. We're north, in the area known as Sopra. Back in the day....way back, this was considered to be THE place to live, the Yuppydom of Assium. Despite several renovations over centuries, the steep road up from the Comune preserves its typical medieval swagger and appearance. Eventually, the street ends in the Piazza San Rufino which is dominated, to say the least, by the Romanesque facade of the Cathedral. Saint Rufino was the first bishop of Assisi until he was martyred in 238 A.D. And so, he has his own after death hangout. The cathedral represents one of the masterpieces of Umbrian architecture with its three rose windows and the Bell Tower. It was also the baptismal place of Saints Francis, Clare and Agnes.
The Piazza San Rufino, in addition to housing the beautiful Fontana di San Rufino, also has the dubious distinction of being home to the finest pizza in.....well....in all of Italy and my favorite cafe, Il Duomo. Pizza and coffee both within steps of each other. Throw Joe a sleeping bag. He will happily room with the oversized pigeons who frolic in the lovely fountain all day.
The street that shoots in between the two favorites is Via Santa Maria delle Rose. Overlooking the square is the former parish church of Santa Maria delle Rose, called Santa Maria Minore in ancient days in an effort to distinguish it from Santa Maria Maggiore. I know, this stuff gets confusing. But think West Dennis....Dennisport and you are heading in the right direction. Speaking of direction, heading away from San Rufino, up yet another hill, one of zillions that we climb, every day, a zillion times a day, we are back on Via Porta Perlici and loving it. At Number 9 was the Hospital di San Lorenzo which eventually passed into private hands. At Number 17, the medieval houses where the Uber rich Mammoni family resided. I think that is where the workers are now busily engaged in converting the building into yet another wealthy holding. Lots of Uber rich families still around.
Coats of arms adorn many of the doorways along Via Porta Perlici and as one deviates to the right along the street part of the Roman Aqueduct of the Sanguinone can be seen. I think it just looks like an old wall but then, I was not there when it was built. The street, I do know, terminates at the Porta Perlici, one of the gates into the old town, built on a rocky ridge early in the 14th Century. Not far from that point, the remains of the Roman Ampitheater are found but that is for another time.
For now, it is time to simply enjoy modern life on Via Porta Perlici and to rest after a lovely lunch with friends at the Osteria del Mulino.
This year, with Joe, we call the second (aka third) floor "home" and each and every time we return after venturing out, we know we have earned the right to make that reference. We enter through an iron, locked gate, and ascend three flights of narrow terracotta steps which lead to our lovely landing and our front door. Yes, we have just as much street noise every morning when the trash is collected before seven o'clock, but we do have a bedroom window with a view and the very top of the Cathedral of San Rufino makes the climb and noise all worthwhile.
In addition to the noisy trash collectors, we have a construction project going on right outside our door. I'm thinking that it was going on last year too and am sure it will be still in progress next year. It has been the object of Joe's fascination and mine, having been an "industrial nurse"who can't help but check out workers at work. These men are drilling into stone all day long. They are lifting and toting tons of new stone, creating walls and floors and steps. Drilling, bending, squatting. All I note are pads that cushion their knees when they are mortaring and laying cobblestones. Nothing else in the health and safety category. My office is closed.
We're at #16A Via Porta Perlici. The Piazza del Comune is at the center of the town and south of it, the area known as the Sotto or lower end. We're north, in the area known as Sopra. Back in the day....way back, this was considered to be THE place to live, the Yuppydom of Assium. Despite several renovations over centuries, the steep road up from the Comune preserves its typical medieval swagger and appearance. Eventually, the street ends in the Piazza San Rufino which is dominated, to say the least, by the Romanesque facade of the Cathedral. Saint Rufino was the first bishop of Assisi until he was martyred in 238 A.D. And so, he has his own after death hangout. The cathedral represents one of the masterpieces of Umbrian architecture with its three rose windows and the Bell Tower. It was also the baptismal place of Saints Francis, Clare and Agnes.
The Piazza San Rufino, in addition to housing the beautiful Fontana di San Rufino, also has the dubious distinction of being home to the finest pizza in.....well....in all of Italy and my favorite cafe, Il Duomo. Pizza and coffee both within steps of each other. Throw Joe a sleeping bag. He will happily room with the oversized pigeons who frolic in the lovely fountain all day.
The street that shoots in between the two favorites is Via Santa Maria delle Rose. Overlooking the square is the former parish church of Santa Maria delle Rose, called Santa Maria Minore in ancient days in an effort to distinguish it from Santa Maria Maggiore. I know, this stuff gets confusing. But think West Dennis....Dennisport and you are heading in the right direction. Speaking of direction, heading away from San Rufino, up yet another hill, one of zillions that we climb, every day, a zillion times a day, we are back on Via Porta Perlici and loving it. At Number 9 was the Hospital di San Lorenzo which eventually passed into private hands. At Number 17, the medieval houses where the Uber rich Mammoni family resided. I think that is where the workers are now busily engaged in converting the building into yet another wealthy holding. Lots of Uber rich families still around.
Coats of arms adorn many of the doorways along Via Porta Perlici and as one deviates to the right along the street part of the Roman Aqueduct of the Sanguinone can be seen. I think it just looks like an old wall but then, I was not there when it was built. The street, I do know, terminates at the Porta Perlici, one of the gates into the old town, built on a rocky ridge early in the 14th Century. Not far from that point, the remains of the Roman Ampitheater are found but that is for another time.
For now, it is time to simply enjoy modern life on Via Porta Perlici and to rest after a lovely lunch with friends at the Osteria del Mulino.
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