Laboratorio di Tessitura a Mano

Giuditta Brozzetti


Click on the above to see who we met today

The tiny, amazing powerhouse of a woman, one Marta Cucchia.  In person, at her workshop. In Perugia.  What a thrill.

Our good friend, Letizia Mattiacci, has a good friend and she threatened me with a not-so-good death if I failed to meet her this trip.

So, off we went this morning, on the train, to the lovely city of Perugia.  Down the hills, past the Etruscan gate, through the campus of the University of Perugia, to the ancient church that is now the workshop of the tiny but powerful Marta.

Marta smiles when she says that she and her siblings used to play tennis in the vast space that how houses her ancient weaving looms.  She points to all of the pieces from the press, the NewYork Times, included, which indicate that she is a local celebrity.  She tells us that in the fifties, her father purchased the old church in which we stand, and all of the surrounding property and that her great grandmother's weaving business fell into history until she, one day, got the "passion" and made weaving her be-all-and-end-all.

The looms are hundreds of years old. The work is labor-intensive.  She brought the looms to the place in which they now reside. She maintains, repairs and works the looms, the first "computers" ever known.  Why?  Because in ancient weaving times, the designs were formulated by what we now know as "punch cards".  The punch cards are still used on these looms and the patterns created are those that were created centuries ago.  To make a new pattern is unthinkable and highly impractical.

You simply have to watch the video and look at the website to get somewhat of an appreciation for who Marta is and what she does.  We cannot possibly explain this one.

Enjoy!

Mini-Me

The city of Perugia, Italy has approximately 529 thousand fewer residents than the city of Boston, Massachusetts, according to the 2018 census.  It has lots of newer high-rise (for this part of the country) apartment buildings in its surrounds and is probably best known for its older parts, all of which are way, way uphill.  The first time we attempted to get to the Centro by car, we simply could not do it.  We drove around and around, unable to find a space to park.  We abandoned our plans. Sadly.  Fast forward to the present time. The problem was solved in 2008.

A few trips ago, an Umbrian-resident friend suggested that we try again.  Only this time, another of those wonderful secrets that keep us returning to the region was revealed.  "Park your car in the big, free lot and take the Minimetro up into the center" was her advice.  Una donna geniale.  A genius, that woman!

More about the charming city of Perugia later. It was early on our list of places to be in Umbria because the train station was the drop off center for our rental car. That's a whole other story.  We are carless and fancy-free now.  Happiness comes by foot. With an umbrella.  That's also a whole other story, one that hopefully, will have a happy ending one of these days.

So, I re-introduced Joe to the Mini and off we went, up, up and up to the top or "centro" of Perugia, after making four of the seven stops that the tiny cars briefly make.  The cars are small and they keep on coming so there's never a stampede to catch one and entrances and exits are done with civility and efficiency.  When all the stops have been completed, the tiny cars go around a bend and start all over on the  gleaming rail.  Miss your stop, catch it on the next pass. Toddlers love this stuff.  Nonnas love this stuff.
Take a cranky grandchild on the mini and you've rescued the day. While it is not an amusement park ride, it still is fun.  Too bad kids just take it for granted.  We sit on our seats in total amazement as we imagine zipping up Route 3 from Quincy to downtown Boston. Or is this another of those "Only in Italy" happenstances that we see happening every day? While in Italy.

Ciao!

Views

Yesterday, Jenny and I put our big girl pants on and left Assisi for the day.  Our friend, Pietro, dropped us off at the mobile phone store where I was able to get a SIM card put into my phone.  I know ABsolutely nothing about the technology and hope that it can be reversed when I return to the states but for now, another bit of getting settled has been accomplished.  The darling young man who fitted the card into my phone pointed us to the bus stop off we went to the train station. With a few more angels pointing the way, we eventually arrived in Perugia where we hopped on to the MiniMetro and......like magic,  we arrived in the center of this lively city.  The last time I visited Perugia, I was with my Italian friend, Josie, who was  born a Perugina.  Somehow, being with her was a whole lot easier.  For starters, we traveled by car rather than trains and busses and all I had to do that day was fall in love with her city.n

All of Italy is in preparation for the holidays.  Only here,  there are more of them.  Sure, Christmas is on its way, but first, the olive oils and new wines have to be celebrated and now-is-the-time.  Outdoor markets, huge in Perugia, are alive with aromas that simply won't quit.

After a very local and nice little lunch, Jenny and I parted for the afternoon.  For the next few hours, I wandered, finally finding myself at the edge of the city.  The views were breathtaking as the Umbrian valley stretched out underneath a rim of pure white cloud.  In the same area, I found a lovely park, complete with flower and fountains (naturally). A set of festivals for the eyes. In an instant,  I was reminded of the Robert Frost poem that I have loved since my youth,"The Road Not Taken".  Looking out at the valley gave me one perspective - the beauty of this country, the Umbrian valley so peaceful, serene and verdant.   Looking at the statue centered in one of the fountains, a naked woman, arms gracefully stretched behind her head, a totally different perspective came to mind. My lady in the fountain reminded me of Anita Ekberg's portrayal of Sylvia, the temptress in "La Dolce Vita", as she indulged in the waters of the Trevi Fountain.  Sylvia, her carefree approach to living, so symbolic of the way life is perceived by most Italians, dressed in a low-cut black gown, casting her fate in the waters.

At the end of the day, it's all about perspectives.  Mountain view or fountain view, the spirit of Italy spirits me and I am reminded over and over again that life is beautiful and sweet. La Dolce Vita.
And now, for another perspective....it's time to try another gelato.