Two Roads

I'm writing this from the cafe down the cobblestoned street from my apartment.  Before coming to Italy, I made a little promise to myself, that I would have cappuccino on as many mornings as possible, and this is my go-to place.  Isabella, the woman who seems to LIVE here, has become a friend.  She teaches me Italian words, expressions and correct pronunciation.  If there is a new poster on the board, advertising a local happening, she helps me with locations as well.  Of all the things I will miss, it will be this place and this person.  She has taught me so much more than words, she has also taught me kindness and trust. Yesterday sucked all of my cash and cash machines are few and far between.  So, this morning, all I had in cash was 1.30Euro.  Just short of a cappuch.  Without missing a beat she told me to stop by any time later and pay when I do, to not worry now -" just have your cappuccino!"

So, this is a warm and friendly place for me to write.  It's not busy, especially early in the morning, and I feel as if I am in the company of someone I've known all my life.

The perfect week, number three, is drawing to a close, today being Saturday.  It was a busy one and the weather, sunshine and blue skies.  It's getting colder, more Winter-like and the tile floors in the apartment hold that cold.  The evening air is filled with that special aroma that comes from wood-burning fireplaces, found in home kitchens and dining rooms in Umbria.  Fuel is expensive here, almost as bad as the taxes the Italians pay on every, every thing. There are times when I question the ability of the people who live here to sustain themselves but then again, this IS Italy and they ARE Italians so what's up with me?

I had and still have, a list of "objectives" for this visit.  Things I really want to nail down, find out more about, savor and enjoy. Some left over stuff from previous visits hang on to that list and beg for my attention.  One of those is the trip through the Bosco di San Francesco that I promised myself. I saved this one for my friend's visit, knowing that they also might enjoy a walk in the woods.

The Bosco (woods) di San Francesco is a "sacred landscape", an area made up of forests, olive groves, cultivated fields, hills, plains, farmhouses and little parish churches. Typically Italian. The entrance is found through an arched opening in a wall that is adjacent to the Basilica.  Posters of informtionin tell visitors that the land was donated to the Fondo Ambiente Italiano, the FAI, Italy's National Trust,in 2008.When the land became available, natural beauty was soon discovered. Acres of land that had not been cared for grew more beautiful once landscape experts and architects found the right balance between the past and the present.  Damages caused by years of neglect were repaired and everything done was done in a way that would allow future visitors to discover the way land lends itself to human life. This is not a simple stroll.  This is one that becomes an interior journey as paths bring you deeper and deeper into the natural showcase.  Sights and sounds of the woods, and only of the woods, allow for meditation and for a full appreciation of the relationship between mankind and the natural world.

We followed the route to the Pont di Santa Croce and, after a break, turned around, backtracking together until we came to a tiny bridge called the Ponte dei Galli.  It was here that I was faced with a choice as I discovered a cut off to the right of the main path.  Should I continue along with my friends, safe in the knowledge that the route would eventually lead back to the starting point or......should I take the low path, the one that I kind of figured would lead "somewhere"?  On a tree at that junction I spotted the red and white trail marker that indicates a path used by the C.A.I. (Club Alpino Italiano). I tossed the idea of going on alone in my head for about thirty seconds and then, from out of nowhere came the voice....."you only live once".  I bid my good-byes to my friends and took off along the dried up river, traversing a very narrow path.  This was not a route for novice hikers.  It twisted, inclined, leveled and took me up some narrow and slippery rock paths.  I bent under tree branches, lost the trail a few times, and finally came out into civilization WAY, far away from the Bosco entrance.  A pee in the woods helped prepare me for the rest of the very long walk back home.  I had not anticipated this whole adventure and had worn a cashmere sweater that morning - it's been getting chilly here.  Bright sunshine forced me to stop along the way and remove the sweater, literally in the middle of a street. That's how warm it got!  You don't need all the details. Trust me, I did not embarrass any American women in the process!

I chose the road less traveled.  It sure did make a difference. This whole experience has been about roads less traveled, about realizing my own strengths and weaknesses.  I have that much more confidence, I have that much more respect for nature and for myself.