National Gallery

 Our days have been filled with wonderful moments. Naturally, we have our favorite places, people and experiences from our past that we revisit and enjoy.  We  are determined to hold those in place and at the same time, add to the list while we are still able. Time is a thief. There’s still time. We don’t take that for granted. 

The city of Perugia is not far from Assisi. It’s a few stops on the train and then a fun ride up the hill from the station on the mini metro, the tiny train that feels very much like a ride in Disney World. The center of the city is alive and pedestrian friendly. The main street, Via Corso Vannucci, is home to the Palazzo dei Priori, the seat of the City Council since the Middle Ages. And the Palazzo houses one of the richest collections of art in the country, the Galleria Nationale dell’Umbria.

In fact, the Palazzo is the only municipal building in the country to host a collection of art.

For us, this was a first. On previous occasions, we had not found the Galleria open so before we set out, we checked the schedule lest we be disappointed. Yes, it indeed was open. No, the elevator was not. We’re beginning to think that every elevator and many escalators in Umbria are “non aperto” at the moment (this country has labor shortages too). The nice young women who sold us our tickets apologized for the inconvenience but did point out the way to the staircase…..es. Staircases. “The entrance to the gallery is on the third floor”. Now, if you know anything about Italy then you do probably know that buildings start on the zero floor, making the second floor the first. This adds a floor. Up,up,up. And finally, the entrance which, for such a formal place, was staffed by two very informal people who for some reason, assumed we were senior citizens and led us to a “special” entrance and handed over two canes which opened to become little chairs. We accepted the assessment and appreciated the chairs as we set out on our journey through forty rooms of 800 years of Italian art curated in 3500 meters of collection space. 

So, another new and magnificent memory was born and after what seemed like a very long time, we descended, needless to say, looking very much forward to the restrooms.

Which were on the third damned floor. So, no.

Halloween

 We’re into our second week in Assisi, settled into our apartment which, coincidentally, was once part of a beautiful shop. It’s here that I first met my lovely friend Jo Comodi 13 years ago when she leased the space for her silk scarf shop. She came by yesterday morning for coffee and was rightfully shocked by the change. The apartment is part of what was once a large home owned by a childless but wealthy woman. It’s characteristic of Assisi and perfectly located. Of course it has its quirks. This is, after all, Italy. Beautiful but seriously booby-trapped. We’re often challenged physically but we’ve so much more cautious about tripping hazards than we were during previous visits. 

Our days have been spent catching up with old friends and enjoying our alter-lifestyle. We still discover new things every day. Our roots are deep and our understanding of the ways of everyday Italian life make the challenges of living in a different language a little less so. 

All the things we love about Italy are still here but we’re sad to notice that so many things have changed over time. Everything is expensive. Even the wine has gone up in price. Olive oil prices have escalated due to a bad growing season and a parasite which rendered countless trees barren. Clothing prices and restaurant prices are similar to those in the states. Incomes, on the other hand, have not escalated and it’s hard to imagine how families are keeping up. 

The positives still outnumber the negatives. The total lack of water pressure in the shower is replaced by the pure pressure of a welcome back hug by a friend. The hills and steep inclines in this ancient hill town are lessened by the stretches of olive-tree-lined pathways that lead to houses that have been held by the same family for centuries. The cacophony of groups of eager tourists looking for the glass tomb of the newest saint Carlo, is mitigated by the clear and certain clanging each hour of the day of church bells, here, there and everywhere.

And now, every thing is good, better, best because it’s time for aperitvo with friends in the Piazza. Some things simply refuse to change. They just require more change nowadays.

Happy Halloween! (Same as in Italian)

  

Home AGAIN!

It never gets old,  but we do.

I never take it for granted.  It’s a privilege 

And the thrill of it all will never end. Not for us.

 We arrived back “home” this morning. We’re back in our beloved Assisi and I am ready for the stories to begin.

Oh, I am sure there will be many. Italy in general never fails and Assisi is lush with tales of magic and surreal happenings.

For now I will just state that we are happily ensconced in a lovely apartment, one that holds a great story. We’re steps away from the Piazza Commune, the very center of this lovely town, with a small grocery store, a lovely little local restaurant, and an ancient tiny church so close in proximity that we could easily visit all three in our pajamas.

I haven’t slept in a very long time. We’re here for a good long while. And the thought of pajamas is uniquely enticing.

Maybe tomorrow I will start with the story about a priest and a Bourbon Club meeting above the clouds